"bob and john" (bobandjohn)
08/09/2016 at 12:53 • Filed to: None
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"bob and john" (bobandjohn)
08/09/2016 at 12:53 • Filed to: None | 1
| 29 |
thats how old this Michilen pilot road 4 is. I’m already near the wear bars.
dam my trip to deals gap must have just SHREDDED this tire. think I got something like 16-17K km out of it. with 8000 of that being basicly track riding.
dogisbadob
> bob and john
08/09/2016 at 13:05 |
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Just looked it up and it seems to be a motorcycle tire. I’m not too familiar with two-wheeled shit, so what is the normal lifespan of a motorcycle tire?
10k miles seems fair for a motorcycle tire, especially if half of it is on the track.
iSureWilll
> bob and john
08/09/2016 at 13:06 |
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12k miles is about normal on bike tires doe brah bruh bro
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bob and john
> dogisbadob
08/09/2016 at 13:09 |
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these are supposed to last closer to 15K miles. oh well.
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bob and john
> iSureWilll
08/09/2016 at 13:10 |
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oh I know. when i had dunlop Q3s i was changing tires 3 times a season. a front and arear at the start, and then 2 more rears later.
I was hoping this one would last longer...maybe 15K miles oh well.
Biggus Dickus (RevsBro)
> bob and john
08/09/2016 at 13:11 |
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I’d say 10,000 miles is pretty damn good for a motorcycle tire. I think im going to be lucky if my rear Battlax RS 10 gets 1,500.
Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> bob and john
08/09/2016 at 13:12 |
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My Deal’s Gap trip ended up being well over 2000 miles. So I am quite glad that I have cheap as hell tires on my Miata. Sure I maybe could have had a little more fun with a set of 200tw on there but that would cost 3 times as much and last not even half as long. I would imagine its a lot tougher physically to ride a ton of miles on a motorcycle though. So it makes sense that tires don’t really need to go as far.
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iSureWilll
> bob and john
08/09/2016 at 13:13 |
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Guess its time for a burnout when you get the new set!
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bob and john
> Biggus Dickus (RevsBro)
08/09/2016 at 13:13 |
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yea, but thats a track tire. not a sports touring tire.
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bob and john
> iSureWilll
08/09/2016 at 13:14 |
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no more tires for me this year. I’ve got one more month then I’m off to school.
TheTurbochargedSquirrel
> bob and john
08/09/2016 at 13:23 |
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8k km of track riding and you still have wear bars? Damn motorcycles are nice to their tires on a track.
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bob and john
> TheTurbochargedSquirrel
08/09/2016 at 13:25 |
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8K km.
but still, sports touring tire...i was hoping to finish the year off with it.
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TheTurbochargedSquirrel
> bob and john
08/09/2016 at 13:33 |
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Yea I was doing other things and screwed up the mileage. But still I would be surprised if a car could get to 1k on a track
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bob and john
> TheTurbochargedSquirrel
08/09/2016 at 13:35 |
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also, keep in mind how light bikes are compared to cars, whichs helps us a lot.
Nonster
> bob and john
08/09/2016 at 14:53 |
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Yeah if you spent a lot of time on the slab getting from Canada to the dragon combined with lots of hard riding while you were there I’m not surprised you wore it out so quick.
I think the guys that get 15k miles out of the PR4's aren’t as hard on their tires haha
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bob and john
> Nonster
08/09/2016 at 14:55 |
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it was only 2400km of straights...
BobintheMtns
> bob and john
08/09/2016 at 15:32 |
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“16-17K”.... damn.
Most I’ve ever gotten out of a rear tire is 3500 miles......
Chasaboo
> bob and john
08/09/2016 at 20:46 |
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Love my Michelin rear tire.
kinako
> bob and john
08/10/2016 at 14:26 |
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I’ve never considered Michelin as a company that prioritizes mileage on any of their bike tires (car tires, a bit more)... since the ancient M59x-es I came up with, they’ve always worn out faster than comparable sport tires...
On my 1st-gen SV and my twin-plug fuelie SV... I’ve used Metzeler exclusively. Commuting 60 mi/day then blasts through WA twisties on dawn raids and runs to Whistler... those tires didn’t stick quite like Michelins... but they lasted 24K easily, while pounding them silly. The old Z6s are superior to their Z8s, though IMO...
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bob and john
> kinako
08/10/2016 at 14:33 |
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i’ve always heard goo things about them, and a friend of mine got 40K km ! out of a set of Pilot power 2cts (and thats not BS, I ride with her...she did actually get that mileage out of them.
ah well. I’ll last it the season and get another next year
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kinako
> bob and john
08/11/2016 at 13:44 |
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Yup, I believe that — my ‘24K’ claim was in miles, mind you (38K km). Pro-mileage: I weigh 175 lbs (on the light side of SV riders, at least the ones I saw in Seattle), am an ex-Hon/Kaw/Suz/Yam tech so my bike is *always* properly aligned, tire pressures, etc... but on the ‘con’ side I accelerate and esp brake pretty aggressively (GSX-R600 front ends with radial calipers on both bikes, must-have in my book), lots of commute miles...
On SVs of both generations... proper wheel alignment is crucial for tread life (and more consistent performance in general). I found on the fuelie SVs that installing a captive spacer kit on the rear (for faster pit swaps during races) helps keep the rear wheel aligned in *both X and Y axes*... both of which combined with heavier rider/riding style, ignored maintenance and Michelin’s greater intolerance (IME) of these, can grind away tread in a hurry. ;)
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bob and john
> kinako
08/11/2016 at 14:05 |
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Hmm. Im 150lbs. And funny enough, i have GSXR forks too. But 07 1000.
What is this captive space kit? This is the very first time Ive heard of it.
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kinako
> bob and john
08/11/2016 at 14:44 |
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So... if you look at your fuelie’s rear wheel... when you remove the axle and chain, there are two big spacers that sit on the inner races of the wheel bearing. The sprocket-side one esp falls out when you try to reinstall the wheel and brake disc... maddeningly so when time is tight and you’re by yourself because your teammates are out buying lunch... :/
The captive spacer kit makes the spacer fit *into* the bearing race, rather than just sit on it... which doesn’t harm function, but definitely makes changes a *lot* easier. This also allows the spacer to act as a structural part of the wheel, which improves alignment consistency, all other things being equal. I could feel after a couple of 45-min shifts on track, the rear end felt much more consistent and stable under fire, than with the wrench-throwing stock setup. ;)
Here’s where I got mine... Zoran is an SV racer and guru I trust:
http://www.twfracing.com/zparts.html
Pro tip: install your axle with the nut on the brake side. This allows easier installation and avoids spacer retention problems on the sprocket side (not on the disc side though, hence the captive kit)... but also, if you biff it... you won’t grind the nut away on the swingarm and/or weld it to the axle threads (the pipe protects the nut on the disc side this way). It also allows you to use your body weight to break the axle nut free. ;)
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bob and john
> kinako
08/11/2016 at 15:53 |
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The nut.on mine is on the brake side OEM. I have the ABS model. Few changes compared to the rest
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kinako
> bob and john
08/14/2016 at 02:58 |
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Didn’t always used to be that way, if it’s now required from a Suzuki dealer. More than likely you may have had a racer put your bike together. Do the techs at the local dealer race? ;)
When I got my ‘00 SV-S... they all had the nut on the sprocket side. You learn after one trackday dropping the bike on the left side... never to do that again. :D
Oh... speaking of pro tips... delrin tank spacers work super well on the 1st-gens... but even better on the 2nd-/2.5-gens (twin-plug). I also suggest getting a SV1000 snorkel and a remap, if you want to solve the 3500 rpm hole in the midrange (my buddy with an ‘08 loves his 1" spacers, and dynotuned his race SV with the same setup).
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bob and john
> kinako
08/14/2016 at 06:22 |
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Bike has never seen the inside of a dealer since I bought it.
I would do the spacers, but at this point, meh. Im done spending money on it for parts, as I kinda want to replace it with an FZ-10
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kinako
> bob and john
08/14/2016 at 14:36 |
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But it would have had to be assembled when it was brand-new, for the person who did buy it from a showroom. Actually more cumbersome for a non-racer tech to assemble threads-right, since you pull rather than push to torque the nut down. ;)
I’m a Yamaha guy originally... owned exclusively Y until a friend was selling a cherry ‘98 GSX-R750 (the original fuelie one). Sold to fund another project but not missed since it was as expensive to insure as a literbike, but was way more work to hustle and felt waaay bulkier than the then-new R1. Besides... riding that knife-edge FI setup in Seattle is suicidal... so settled for the SV. Best bike for all-weather commuting hands-down. Nothing puts power down where you can use it (w/o traction control) than a 90-deg V-Twin. :D
But I can see your attraction to the FZs. I would actually love to ride an FZ-07, since I love Triumphs triples’ powerbands, but not their indifferent quality control and head-scratching engineering decisions. If the FZ-10 is your first literbike... nice work. Insurance is gonna eat you alive, though...
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bob and john
> kinako
08/14/2016 at 19:55 |
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First literbike Ill own. Far from the first Ive ridden. Z1000, ZX-10R, 1198S, and a few others
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kinako
> bob and john
08/15/2016 at 00:05 |
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Used to be metric tech... so ridden all the metric literbikes from ‘97 - ‘13. Prior to ‘97, owned ‘93 & ‘94 FZR1000s, and one ‘97 YZF1000R. Trust me... insurance is pricey for Open-class, esp if you live where noobs like to ruin your rates. :D
I’ve gone to smaller-displacement bikes since commuting in Seattle... better mpg, easier to toss around and still put their power down (which teaches you more about how to use all of it), plus less cash to get into, maintain, etc. The FZ-07 is what I’d pick if I wanted out of my SVs, bar none... which the racebike is soon getting sold.
Owned some freight trains. Tired of insuring and constantly fighting the weight and bulk of a freight train, around a corner. :D
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bob and john
> kinako
08/15/2016 at 01:23 |
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Oh im well aware insurance is going to suck. Im up in ontario. What some ppl on here pay yearly is my monthly payment. Its insane.